East Arnhem Land camp sites - recommendations/reviews please

Submitted: Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 10:29
ThreadID: 151921 Views:583 Replies:6 FollowUps:10
Bookings, Itineraries & the like are quite foreign to us, but we have decided that 2026 will be our Arnhem Land year, & we learned last year that if you don't book well ahead, that despite getting the necessary permits if sites are booked out that the permits cannot be used.

So we have already begun the process & have obtained access permits for June/July for East Arnhem Land, transit permit for the Central Arnhem Rd and provisional bookings for camping in the north Garig Gunak Barlu National Park (Cobourg Peninsula) later in August.

In East Arnhem Land we have booked a couple of places, but most campgrounds are unable to be booked more than 6 months before the desired dates, so it looks like we'll be trying to book from around New year.

We are thinking that most places will be 3 nighters over the course of our month in the east.

I would be interested to hear from anyone who has previously done similar, with recommendations for specific campgrounds. We've pawed over online resources & photos but first hand recommendations are undoubtedly more valuable. We may be wrong but we feel that perhaps the online descriptions 'under sell' rather than over sell locations.

The only two accomodation bookings we have made so far is a couple of nights in Nulunbuy at the Walkabout Lodge, & 3 nights at Bawaka (Lonely Beach).
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Reply By: Member - Graham D2 - Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 13:38

Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 13:38
In 2023 we included both east & west Arnhem Land in our travels. In the east we stayed at...

Garanhan (Macassans): 5 camps - we stayed on site 2 - can be breezy but waves exploding on the rock shelf is quite exhilarating
Banamgarrnga (Rainbow Cliff): 4 camps - we stayed at site 1 - on the cliff top - good views - More private than the other camps - short walk to beach access - 15mins or so to the cliffs
Gapuru (Memorial Park) : 1 camp spot - appreciated this the best - no other campers as only one camp area - waterfalls and rock pools for swimming - isolated.

You will enjoy the area and the Cobourg Peninsula is spectacular with many beach walks, bird life and a few drives. Rangers are very helpful.

Graham

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Follow Up By: Member - Cuppa - Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 14:11

Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 14:11
Thanks Graham. This morning I read that 'some'(?) of the eastern camps have a 2.5m height restriction & a 3.5mt weight limit. A concern given that our truck is 3.2m high & 7t weight. These restrictions only mentioned in one place. No mention in most resources.
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Follow Up By: Member - Graham D2 - Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 18:24

Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 18:24
Not sure re height & weight as we tented leaving our van at Mainoru Store. Ring Dhimmuru Corporation, we found them very helpful with getting permits and camping information, as the three we stayed at come under their domain. Getting into Memorial maybe a little tight.

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Reply By: Peter_n_Margaret - Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 14:43

Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 14:43
We visited Coburg Peninsula in June 2021.
Great place and the service from the Rangers is spectacular.
Be aware that most of the peninsula is off limits and it is not permitted to camp anywhere but the allocated camp ground, but what you can see is worth the effort.

12 minutes video clip: Cahills Crossing to Pt Smith. https://youtu.be/gX0c9WWYLnY
Short video clip: Coastal scenic drive. https://youtu.be/_nTkUnYjnwo
Short video clip: Wetland scenic drive. https://youtu.be/mVQLJbnpdwE

We were booked in for the normal 1 week, but covid caused a lack of bookings and we were able to extend our stay by another week half way through the first week. As it turned out, the locals announced that they were going to close Cahills crossing for covid protection and we had to dash out 2 days early before they blocked the road.
Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: Member - Cuppa - Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 14:56

Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 14:56
Thanks Peter.
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Reply By: Member - Wildmax - Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 23:09

Tuesday, Dec 02, 2025 at 23:09
In East Arnhem Land we had a fantastic time a couple of years ago at both Bawaka and Cato River - very welcoming communities
Wildmax
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Formerly an AOR Eclipse and a TVan

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Reply By: Member - LeighW - Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 10:08

Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 10:08
We stayed at the Walkabout lodge and at scout camp which is quite nice with the river. We actually swam in the river on quite a few occasions and locals also came for a dip but probably wasn't the smartest thing do do.

All the other popular campsites were booked out well in advance. Some of the beach camping sites were vacant but the tracks were quite overgrown and we would have had trouble even getting our camper into them. Sand is very fine amd powdery and sites we looked at quite exposed for the more private sites.
Seem to remember there was a large ground on the beach but it didn't appeal to us as amenities were few.

Coburg peninsula was ok but not really anything do there if you don't fish. Two big camp areas, one generator one no gens permitted. We were booked into the non gen area but found all the shady sites taken, also was quite boggy in there. We opted for the gen area, again all the shady sites taken but we found one with a shelter and its own shower/toilet and no oe was using generators anyway. Personally would only go back again to see the old settlement which we had booked a tour of but they cancelled it as there wasn't enough takers to fill the boat. From memory caravans were banned but there was a few there. From memeory there was also supposed to be a cap on how many could stay at one time but there were a lot more there than the was suposed to be so not sure how that worked.

Rangers were good and would drop in daily to check on us and clean the amenities.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 10:39

Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 10:39
.
Leigh, when we were at Scout Camp they were setting up a croc trap because of a sighting. We chose not to go swimming!!!!
And at Ganami (Wonga Creek) campsite we saw several resident crocs. Again, we did not swim.
Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - LeighW - Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 13:19

Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 13:19
From memory someone at the Aboriginal Corporation siad it was ok to swim there but
again from memory I recall the glossy indicated it wasn't.

When we checked out the river we found there was a rope swing setup for the kids, I so we thought. Maybe it was for baits for the crocs!

Didn't look the safest but when the locals came down and started swiming we thought it must be ok. I have more wisdom these days and wouldn't think of doing the same now. Have seen a large croc back into small waves breaking on the beach at Smiths point and as soon as the snout was in the water it became invisible even the the crystal clear water.

On the way back we decided to camp on the old Goyder river ford, we crossed the ford and found a couple of guys had beaten as to the camp site beside the river and set up camp. On a tree was a large sign saying beware large croc sighted here 2 days prior, didn't seem to phase them. We camped on higher ground.

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Follow Up By: Peter_n_Margaret - Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 13:37

Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 13:37
Smith Point.
5M?

Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: Member - LeighW - Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 14:50

Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 14:50
The croc I saw up there was a mottled colour, white and light grey and blended in beautifully with the water and sand. Don't know how long it was but it was big!
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Follow Up By: Peter_n_Margaret - Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 15:33

Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 15:33
NEVER believe the locals if they tell you it is OK to swim.
We spent some months at Kalumburu and they said it was safe to swim at Honeymoon Bay. We watched a large croc swim past almost every day and check out each camp site.
Several times it came up onto the beach and within a meter or so of camps.
And they were not little tackers either.

Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: Kenell - Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 18:48

Wednesday, Dec 03, 2025 at 18:48
Funny you should mention the kids at Kalumburu Peter. I camped there with a group of fellow fishermen many years ago. We fished out to sea as well up the river towards the community. Crocodiles were prolific - particularly in the river. We took some fish into the community one afternoon to give away. We were surprised to see 20 or more kids in the river. When we asked them about the crocs we were assured that the crocs "only eat white fella kids not black fella kids". We doubted the science in that statement and decided that we were once white fella kids too so swimming was taken off the agenda.

Kenell
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Reply By: Member - Cuppa - Thursday, Dec 04, 2025 at 10:04

Thursday, Dec 04, 2025 at 10:04
I came across a brochure from the Dimurru Aborginal Corporation in East Arnhem Land stating that their camp sites had a 2.5 m height access limit & a 3.5t weight limit. & 2.1m width.

This promised to put paid to our visit altogether in our 3.2m high, 2.1m wide, 7t truck.

I emailed the Dhimurru Aboriginal Corporation , being clear about our truck's height & weight & received a very prompt & very helpful response from them, informing me that there are indeed 3 sites where we would be unable to get into, but that all the rest would be ok, so long as we are careful.

The 3 that are unsuitable include two we had hoped to camp at - Cape Arnhem & Turtle beach, the third being the beach 'next door' to Turtle, - Little Bondi beach. But we can still day visit some of these - just have to park & walk a bit further & there are other beach camps nearby that we can accesss.eg Maccassans beach. All of the inland sites should be accessible.

So the trip planning is back on. Getting the permits was quick & easy. The Transit permit from the Northern lad council is free & arrived 24 hours after applyng online. The Dhimurru Visitors access pass - $182 for 2 people for 30 days also received within 24 hours. - also all done online.

Camp fees are $33.50 per night for two (same price for one)

All quite a lot more expensive than our usual free camping style, but not unexpected , And considering some are exclusive - you have the whole site to yourself - even though there is room for 5 vehicles. If 5 travelling together book- they have it to themselves. If just 1 like us book it we have it to ourselves. Max 2 nights.

For the Cobourg Peninsula camping - another very prompt response saying our dates are provisionally booked & we will be contacted in the new year to confirm & make payment by card over the phone.

Generally I have been most impressed by the promptness & the helpfulness of all the communications.I confess to having worried that we may have come up against over-caution on the part of office based employees with 'computer says no' type answers, but not so at all, quite the opposite & quite refreshing,
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Reply By: Member - peter g28 - Friday, Dec 05, 2025 at 20:51

Friday, Dec 05, 2025 at 20:51
A couple of places you may want to visit, about 150k's north of Bullman heading to Nhulunbuy, there will be a turn off to a Yolngu community called Baniyala.
The community has a recreation place about 4ks out of the community that faces the stunning blue waters of Blue Mud Bay.
Blue Mud Bay
There is also location of Cape Arnhem, again permits will be required, it is a very impressive place...with some beach driving.
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Follow Up By: Member - Cuppa - Friday, Dec 05, 2025 at 21:01

Friday, Dec 05, 2025 at 21:01
Thanks Peter, I'll check out Baniyala.

Sadly Cape Arnhem which was probably our no.1 choice, is not accessible for us, but I expect we'll be able to get up the beach to Twin Eagles for a look.
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