House solar panel on 4x4 roof

Submitted: Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 14:09
ThreadID: 152141 Views:1022 Replies:7 FollowUps:14
Hi All

I'm looking at doing a poverty solar installation and would appreciated any input.

Don't want to spend a fortune and am relatively time poor. Troopy still has AGM's. Yeah, I'll rewire it one day and install Lithium.

Wanted to put a house panel up top. I can get a new 450w (or there abouts) for low $200's.

Controller is wired in car, Anderson plug on bull-bar. Yes, controller can handle that wattage and voltage.

How to mount is my question.

I can't fit my car where I park under the house with a rack on. Have a full sized ARB rack, but at 65 kg and myself heading towards 60, it isn't as easy to get on and off by myself anymore.

I have two old rhino racks which I think might be the go. Maybe the heavy duty uni strut length ways, and 4 lighter weight uni strut cross braces.

I'm just planning on running a lead from panel to Anderson plug manually when parked up.

Not looking to angle it, yep, I know, hugely more efficient. Then need to carry a ladder. At 450w, lying flat in the Top End, I'm hoping I'll get enough juice.

My man concern is the panel just falling to bits the first lot of corrugations I hit.

I feel the centre of the panel needs to be supported, not just the frame. Thoughts?

Thanks for your input.

cheers

Lyndon
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Reply By: Peter_n_Margaret - Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 14:43

Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 14:43
I doubt you need centre support.
I have a friend with a Canter with 4 similar panels on the roof, mounted in the conventional way.
We recently drove the Canning (and other places), without any issue.
Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 14:53

Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 14:53
Hi Peter

Thanks for the reply. I won't be driving down the Canning anytime soon, so that gives me some comfort. I just thought those huge panels are really designed to be stationary. The 12v ones that are smaller and have heavier frames, I can see them being OK. mmm

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Lyndon
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Reply By: Member - lyndon NT - Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 14:56

Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 14:56
Whoops, also the bracket types people are using to hold these panels down. Not sure if the frame has sufficient "bulk" to bolt it down. Or maybe just some ally angle down the sides would do?

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Follow Up By: Peter_n_Margaret - Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 15:01

Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 15:01
Pic.....On the Canning, 2024.
Have no close up pics :(

Those panels did the southern Canning in 2024, northern Canning, Hamersley Range and Anne Beadell in 2025 and is now in Tasmania.
Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 19:39

Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 19:39
Thanks Peter

I guess I'll give it a go. What size panels are they on the OKA?
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Follow Up By: Peter_n_Margaret - Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 21:34

Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 21:34
3 @ 160W plus 3 @ 200W plus 200W as an awning over the rear window.
https://youtu.be/L2EOrguTzZk
Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: RMD - Tuesday, Feb 03, 2026 at 17:43

Tuesday, Feb 03, 2026 at 17:43
Lydon.
Depending on the panel either being LONGish or more Square, over a large area the middle of the glass is UNSUPPORTED and while probably OK on an OKA with big wheels and bottoming of suspension unlikely to cause a substantial INSTANT SHOCK to the CENTRE of GLASS MASS, a smaller vehicle like a LC will experience sudden and intense shocks sometimes to the GLASS centre MASS. Although GLASS is truly ELASTIC it only bends past a certain point. Therefore, I have used a thin aluminium strip, 25mm wide, edge on between the side rails and going across the MASS centre, Simply glued on with Polyurethane or SILICON sealant. That edge ON support stops the GLASS bending DOWNWARD in it's centre as the FRAME SUDDENLY is forced UP by the vehicle body. It is an instantaneous action you are wanting to dampen. If using two panels you can use a Reg, Mine 72vOC and reg 100V rating, which is more than the total panel voltage and the SERIES connection will give more overall supply harvest to the reg, and by using same size wiring as before, amps much the same but voltage doubled. The MPPT will then do it's best for you!

PS. I recently packaged THREE LARGE TV's in slim boxes with AMPLE SCREEN/GLASS SUPPORT because leant over they BEND and CRACK by GRAVITY ALONE. All three survived from Vic to Hervey bay in a TRUCK!
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Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Tuesday, Feb 03, 2026 at 20:12

Tuesday, Feb 03, 2026 at 20:12
Thanks, yes, I was concerned about the middle of a large panel flexing. Car has hard suspension and can shake like S--T in certain conditions.
Cheers
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Reply By: Zippo - Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 19:08

Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 19:08
Weird coincidence! Last night I watched a video on me-tube with a comparison of auto-vs-house panels, and the dude did briefly cover the mounting and corro aspects.Here
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Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 19:38

Saturday, Jan 31, 2026 at 19:38
Ha, Serendipity

cheers
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Reply By: AlbyNSW - Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 10:45

Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 10:45
A point to note is house panels are usually higher voltage than RV ones so will need a compatible controller
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Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Tuesday, Feb 03, 2026 at 20:13

Tuesday, Feb 03, 2026 at 20:13
Cheers, yeah, have a victron 100/50
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Reply By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 11:38

Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 11:38
Hi Lyndon,

On my Troopy I had only a single 120?W panel mounted above the cabin roof as the rack occupied the rest of the roof. The panel was bolted via brackets directly to the roof. No problems.

On the Sprinter I used 4x 120ww 22.8v panels that measured 1578mm x 541mm x 35mm. They were attached to the OEM recessed rails on the roof. The forward two panels were transverse then the other two behind were arranged longitudinally. I deemed that the panels were too flexible so reinforced their frames on their longer dimension with 40x40x3mm aluminium angle. Even then I found the most forward panel which bore the brunt of the travel airspeed, exhibited fluttering so added a rubber bush between the panel and roof, attached only to the panel. This cured the flutter and all has been well since.
I would mention though that the sprinter is not subject to the extreme road conditions that the Troopy experienced. It has however survived the Strzelecki Track and a few short unsealed and corrugated access tracks.
I have no knowledge of the flexibility of domestic type panels so the above may not be appropriate.
But I do know that quite a few people have used domestic panels on vehicles off-road.
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Allan

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Reply By: Member - nick boab - Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 20:41

Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 20:41
Lyndon, did you consider cheap flexible panels glued on ?
Cheers Nick

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Reply By: Batt's - Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 21:50

Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 21:50
Do house solar panels have higher voltage output than ones we use on our vehicle's or vans for eg ? Just wondering if a special type of solar regulator would be required.
AnswerID: 648928

Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 21:57

Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 21:57
Yes Batt's, house panels can be up to 40v and do require a regulator rated to accept that voltage.
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Follow Up By: Peter_n_Margaret - Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 23:17

Sunday, Feb 01, 2026 at 23:17
Victron is good for these. Good quality at a reasonable price.
With my new build I will be using 430W semi flexible panels that are 42V and Victron controllers.
Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Monday, Feb 02, 2026 at 13:17

Monday, Feb 02, 2026 at 13:17
.
They look good Peter. My only apprehension would be removal if necessary. Especially on a composite roof.
How are you attaching them?
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Allan

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Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Monday, Feb 02, 2026 at 13:24

Monday, Feb 02, 2026 at 13:24
Quote " Just wondering if a special type of solar regulator would be required."

There is nothing special about the regulators used on our homes or in commercial applications. There are three types of regulator that are commonly used for battery charging. The older shunt type that are no longer used. The second type that were introduces are the PWM type that are used when the output voltage of the panels are only a bit higher than the battery charge voltage. Thirdly, there is the MPPT type that "transform" the panels output voltage to match the battery charging voltage.

The MPPT type of charger are the main type used by caravanners. These come with a broad range of maximum permissible input voltages, so you just have to be careful that you select a model that can accommodate your panel array output voltages.

The regulators used in domestic installations without batteries operate the same way as those we use on our vans. They differ from the van models in that their output is 230V AC power and not DC battery charging power.
PeterD
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Follow Up By: Peter_n_Margaret - Monday, Feb 02, 2026 at 14:53

Monday, Feb 02, 2026 at 14:53
Allan B said "They look good Peter. My only apprehension would be removal if necessary. Especially on a composite roof.
How are you attaching them?"

They will be attached directly to the roof with either a structural silicone, or VHB tape, yet to be decided.
I have found this mob's advice very sound. Solar4RVs mounting instructions.
I don't want an air gap under them to fill up with red dirt and twigs, but understand that will cost about 10% power when it is hot (but that is also when there is plenty of energy being produced).

Getting them off is easy. Start with a multi-tool around the edges and then use a length of tiny diameter stainless steel fishing cable, or even 100kg fishing braid, with a handle each end.
Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Monday, Feb 02, 2026 at 21:01

Monday, Feb 02, 2026 at 21:01
......"then use a length of tiny diameter stainless steel fishing cable."
Ah, yes. Just like cheese. Clever.
Cheers
Allan

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