![Low Cloud cover over the Flinders Ranges]()
Low Cloud cover over the Flinders Ranges
Like any trip that I plan, the weather will play a very important factor in the successful outcome of the trip. For the months leading up to our proposed trip to visit friends on the
Birdsville Track, the weather was just perfect, but the same could not be said days before our intended departure date. I was hearing first hand reports of a fair amount of rain having fallen around the
Leigh Creek area, so I gave Patsy a phone call up at Etadunna Station, and her reply was,” it was perfect blue skies and a balmy 23° C up along the
Birdsville Track”, so I hoped that things would take a drastic change for the better in the
Leigh Creek area.
Checking out the Elders Weather site the same could not be said with a large rain band forecast to pass through the centre of Australia and passing through the very country we hope to visit with some substantial amount of rain to be received. Leaving a foggy
Clare, we had rain on and off all the way up to
Hawker which was a real great start to the trip. From
Hawker north the rain increased in intensity to the point that we had to have the wipers on all the time and large sheets of water were now covering the sides of the Main Highway. Knowing first hand what it is like to be caught out on a wet
Birdsville Track, we decided to make
Leigh Creek our destination for the first night, as I had a strange feeling about the weather and the road conditions further north. Booking into the Caravan Park, the caretaker must have thought we must be crazy, asking for a non-powered site, and not a cabin as he expected.
It rained all night and a quick phone call to Patsy first thing Saturday morning confirmed that it was indeed raining up along the
Birdsville Track, with Patsy recording 4mm of rain overnight and a quick
check of the Elders Weather site confirmed that
Marree had received over 20mm of rain and
Leigh Creek 35mm. Experience told me straight away that it would be pointless to even attempt the drive up to
Marree, as with that amount of rain, all tracks would be soon closed if they were not already. Driving out of the Caravan Park, the Caretaker said you might as
well book into here again for another night, as the Main Road south was closed to all traffic due to flooding creeks.
Another quick
check of the Elders site and there was a massive rain front around 2 hours west of the area and if we did not get out them, even
Leigh Creek could become stranded. The very first
creek crossing south of the town had water flowing across the road and this continued on with nearly every
creek crossing the further south that we headed. We were warned by fellow travellers that were heading north that the road further south was closed due to flooding waters at one of the creek crossings over the Main Highway and there was a large line up of vehicles on both sides waiting to cross and there would be no way that we would be able to get through to
Hawker.
![The first of many flooded crreks over the Main Highway]()
The first of many flooded crreks over the Main Highway
![Shale over the Main Highway]()
Shale over the Main Highway
![Those dark clouds meant only one thing - more heavy rain]()
Those dark clouds meant only one thing - more heavy rain
We passed a Police vehicle heading north and he made no signs of wanting us to stop or turn around, so we continued further south until only around 67 kilometres north of
Hawker where the Brachina Overflow crosses the Main Highway. Then as we were warned, the Highway was blocked by a torrent of very fast flowing water as the Brachina Creek raced across the Highway and stopped all vehicles dead in their tracks, including large Road Trains. After around an hour and a half, the water level was slowly dropping, but the clouds out over the Ranges were very black and would be dropping large amounts of rain on the Ranges, which would result in even more water flowing down the Brachina Creek. The first vehicle to
test the still very fast flowing water was a road train, but it still would not be safe enough for smaller vehicles, so all we could do a just wait. A quarter of an hour later, two more trucks went through the fast water followed by the first four-wheel drive vehicle. Safely negotiating the water crossing, he was followed by another five four-wheel drives, including us and we were now free of this barrier. It would have been a long wait for the large line up of conventional vehicles, and we wondered just how long they ended up waiting before it was safe for them to cross.
![Deep and fast flowing water at the Brachina Overflow]()
Deep and fast flowing water at the Brachina Overflow
![The water level slowly dropping]()
The water level slowly dropping
![This Road Train was to first to cross]()
This Road Train was to first to cross
After a quick stop at
Hawker, we continued south back to
Clare where we would rearrange our camping gear and decide what we would do for the next week. Checking the Internet when we got
home, all roads through the
Flinders Ranges and north of
Lyndhurst were now closed to all vehicles, so we made the wise but very disappointing decision to turn around when we did. The next 2 days we watched the weather charts and the worst of the weather had passed, so we decided that we would head back to the Flinders and spend 5 nights back up at
Wilpena Pound. Heading back to the Flinders and it was a real typical winters day here in
Clare, with low cloud covering all the hills and fine drizzling rain, and it was not until we were near
Orroroo that the cloud cover dissipated completely and clearer sky’s to the north.
![Orroroo Town welcome sign]()
Orroroo Town welcome sign
![Fiona looking up at this massive 500 year old River Red Gum]()
Fiona looking up at this massive 500 year old River Red Gum
We had morning smoko at the site of the very old River Red Gum at
Orroroo before heading north to the Flinders again. I wanted to
test just how quick the roads were drying out, seeing that they had now had no rain on them for over two days, and I knew just the road, which is just outside of
Cradock and was in fact the old Main
Hawker to
Cradock Road before the new bitumen road was made and takes the back way into
Hawker. The roads was very good to the point where we were actually kicking up dust with only a few puddles of water in the lower sections of the road. This was a good
sign that the roads further north in the Flinders would be drying out and would hopefully open to traffic again very shortly. Arriving at
Wilpena Pound, we booked into the
camping area, where we were able to get our usual spot and there were very few campers in the Pound, which I would have thought from the recent heavy rains in the area. When I asked just how much rain had fallen here, I was informed that Wilpena had received 75mm of rain, which explained why the creeks were all raging torrents like they were only days before. With the tent set up and the fire going, it was great to be back to one of our very special
places and still very close to
home. This was
bush camping with the best of both worlds, hot showers, normal
toilets and Internet coverage, yet still if a true bush setting of
Wilpena Pound. It was a cool that night around the campfire, with not a cloud in the sky and if it was going to stay like this, our week back in the Flinders would be just perfect.
![On the old Main Hawker - Cradock Road heading towards Hawker]()
On the old Main Hawker - Cradock Road heading towards Hawker
![Those majestic Flinders Rangers - we never get sick of visiting them]()
Those majestic Flinders Rangers - we never get sick of visiting them
![The cloud cover starting to clear]()
The cloud cover starting to clear
![The Elder Range Roadside Stop]()
The Elder Range Roadside Stop
![The Elder Range]()
The Elder Range
![Getting closer to Wilpena]()
Getting closer to Wilpena
![Rawnsley Bluff Lookout]()
Rawnsley Bluff Lookout
![Native Cypress Pines are very common in the Flinders]()
Native Cypress Pines are very common in the Flinders
![Native Pines and Rawnsley Bluff]()
Native Pines and Rawnsley Bluff
Next morning the Ranges were blanketed in a cover of cloud so it looked like we were now back into the chance of rain, just what we did not want. With fire going again, the smell of the smoke was very pleasant and as Fiona was toasting her bread over the coals of the fire, we were visited by a number of varieties of local birds that were sitting on Fiona’s chair waiting for a free feed. Over the next four days, we visited many of the visitor attractions that the
Flinders Ranges are famous for. During one of our day drives, we revisited the Brachina Overflow where is crosses the Main Highway. The crossing had been
clearing of all
debris and if we had not been caught out there only days before, it is hard to believe that there was so much water thundering across this usually dry crossing. The weather for the week was overcast and the odd small shower of rain. The
Flinders Ranges has always been one of our favourite place to visit and
camp, but is does not matter how many times we have stayed up there, it is one such destination that we always look forward to visiting again.
![Our camp amongst the Cypress Pines]()
Our camp amongst the Cypress Pines
![Trying my new Solar Powerfilm Solar blanket]()
Trying my new Solar Powerfilm Solar blanket
![Snug as a Bug in a Rug]()
Snug as a Bug in a Rug
![Bush Camp Setting]()
Bush Camp Setting
![Our Camp Setup]()
Our Camp Setup
![We had to make sure everything was away at night]()
We had to make sure everything was away at night
![Nothing beats a campfire when camping]()
Nothing beats a campfire when camping
![Leaving Wilpena with a cloud covered Ranges]()
Leaving Wilpena with a cloud covered Ranges
![Not your usual view of the Flinders Ranges]()
Not your usual view of the Flinders Ranges
![There was still some water on the Sacred Canyon Road]()
There was still some water on the Sacred Canyon Road
![These big Red Gums would have had a great drink from all the water in the small creeks]()
These big Red Gums would have had a great drink from all the water in the small creeks
![Low cloud still covering the Ranges from the Sacred Canyon Road]()
Low cloud still covering the Ranges from the Sacred Canyon Road
My only word of advice for anyone that intends to visit this iconic destination in South Australia, and if you have never visited the area before, do not under estimate the time that you will require to see all that the area has to see and visit. A first time trip to the area for the person that that likes to explore all that is on offer, then a minimum say of at least 2 weeks in the area would be recommended, and then you still not see all there is see. The Flinders can be visited any time of the year, but a visit in spring can re rewarded with great displays of
wildflowers, and with the local rains that have fallen right across the whole
Flinders Ranges area, this year is shaping up to be another great year for
wildflowers.
![Fiona is the official "Gate Opener"]()
Fiona is the official "Gate Opener"
![Heading up the creek towards Sacred Canyon]()
Heading up the creek towards Sacred Canyon
![The first of the Aboriginal rock engravings]()
The first of the Aboriginal rock engravings
![The rock pools are usually dry heading up the canyon]()
The rock pools are usually dry heading up the canyon
![The Canyon starting to narrow]()
The Canyon starting to narrow
![Working out which way to get around the water]()
Working out which way to get around the water
![The Main Aboriginal Rock Engravings wall at Sacred Canyon]()
The Main Aboriginal Rock Engravings wall at Sacred Canyon
![Large pool of water at the Engravings site]()
Large pool of water at the Engravings site
![Sacred Canyon Aboriginal Engraving Site]()
Sacred Canyon Aboriginal Engraving Site
![Entering Wilpena Pound]()
Entering Wilpena Pound
![Heading out on the Bunyeroo Gorge Road]()
Heading out on the Bunyeroo Gorge Road
![There were lots of Emus in the Flinders]()
There were lots of Emus in the Flinders
![Old Stock Yards at Yanyanna Hut]()
Old Stock Yards at Yanyanna Hut
![The Yanyanna Hut - used for overland hikers on the Mawson Trail]()
The Yanyanna Hut - used for overland hikers on the Mawson Trail
![Views like this have made the Flinders Ranges famous world wide]()
Views like this have made the Flinders Ranges famous world wide
![The road takes you down to Bunyeroo Gorge]()
The road takes you down to Bunyeroo Gorge
![The rugged beauty of the Flinders Ranges]()
The rugged beauty of the Flinders Ranges
![There was only a little still flowing in Bunyeroo Gorge]()
There was only a little still flowing in Bunyeroo Gorge
![To think days before flooding waters were raging through Bunyeroo Gorge]()
To think days before flooding waters were raging through Bunyeroo Gorge
![Heading for Brachina Gorge]()
Heading for Brachina Gorge
![Brachina Gorge]()
Brachina Gorge
![Brachina Gorge]()
Brachina Gorge
![The forces of nature sent this massive Red Gum down Brachina Gorge in a past flood]()
The forces of nature sent this massive Red Gum down Brachina Gorge in a past flood
![This windmill is dwarfed by the Flinders Ranges]()
This windmill is dwarfed by the Flinders Ranges
![Brachina Overflow days after the flooding]()
Brachina Overflow days after the flooding
![These were the floodwater that stopped us from heading south to Hawker]()
These were the floodwater that stopped us from heading south to Hawker
![A normally dry Brachina Overflow days after the flooding]()
A normally dry Brachina Overflow days after the flooding
![Fiona examines the depth gauge at the Brachina Overflow]()
Fiona examines the depth gauge at the Brachina Overflow
![Debris on the depth gauge]()
Debris on the depth gauge
![Debris on the higher sections of the Brachina Overflow]()
Debris on the higher sections of the Brachina Overflow
![This Crow would always be looking for any scraps]()
This Crow would always be looking for any scraps
![The Noisy Miners were always very shy and always hang back]()
The Noisy Miners were always very shy and always hang back
![The Apostlebirds were always first into our camp]()
The Apostlebirds were always first into our camp
![Heading east on the Moralana Scenic Drive]()
Heading east on the Moralana Scenic Drive
![View from Hucks Lookout]()
View from Hucks Lookout
![Stokes Hill Lookout]()
Stokes Hill Lookout
![Stokes Hill Lookout]()
Stokes Hill Lookout
![Stokes Hill Lookout]()
Stokes Hill Lookout
![Stokes Hill Lookout]()
Stokes Hill Lookout
![Appealinna Creek]()
Appealinna Creek
![Appealinna Ruins]()
Appealinna Ruins
![Appealinna Ruins]()
Appealinna Ruins
![Appealinna Ruins]()
Appealinna Ruins
![Appealinna Ruins]()
Appealinna Ruins
![The Main Wilpena to Blinman Road]()
The Main Wilpena to Blinman Road
![The unusual shapes on the rock formation]()
The unusual shapes on the rock formation
![Old ruins at Dingly Dell]()
Old ruins at Dingly Dell
![Scenery on the Great Wall of China Road]()
Scenery on the Great Wall of China Road
![Rock formation at the Great Wall of China]()
Rock formation at the Great Wall of China
![The Great Wall of China south of Blinman]()
The Great Wall of China south of Blinman
![Blinman Cemetery]()
Blinman Cemetery
![William Kekwick Memorial]()
William Kekwick Memorial
![This Headstone said it all]()
This Headstone said it all
![Scenery on the Parachilna Gorge Road]()
Scenery on the Parachilna Gorge Road
![Creek Crossing along the Parachilna Gorge Road]()
Creek Crossing along the Parachilna Gorge Road
![Leaving the Hawker Road to drive the Brachina Gorge Road]()
Leaving the Hawker Road to drive the Brachina Gorge Road
![The Brachina Gorge Road from the Main Hawker - Leigh Creek Road]()
The Brachina Gorge Road from the Main Hawker - Leigh Creek Road
![Brachina Gorge Road with some very dark rain clouds]()
Brachina Gorge Road with some very dark rain clouds
![Heading towards Brachina Gorge]()
Heading towards Brachina Gorge
![Billy Creek]()
Billy Creek
![There were still small pools of water after the floods in Brachina Gorge]()
There were still small pools of water after the floods in Brachina Gorge
![Driving conditions in Brachina Creek]()
Driving conditions in Brachina Creek
![Brachina Creek]()
Brachina Creek
![Only days after the flooding, and the track had been used many times]()
Only days after the flooding, and the track had been used many times
![Fiona wanted a water picture]()
Fiona wanted a water picture
![Brachina Gorge rock formations]()
Brachina Gorge rock formations
![Brachina Gorge rock formations]()
Brachina Gorge rock formations
![The endangered Yellowfoot Rock Wallaby]()
The endangered Yellowfoot Rock Wallaby
![I was able to get very close to this little fellow]()
I was able to get very close to this little fellow
![Brachina Gorge]()
Brachina Gorge
![Aroona Lookout]()
Aroona Lookout
![Brachina Gorge Road]()
Brachina Gorge Road
![Moralana Scenic Drive]()
Moralana Scenic Drive
![From the Moralana Scenic Drive Road]()
From the Moralana Scenic Drive Road
![Wilpena Pound from Pugalist Lookout]()
Wilpena Pound from Pugalist Lookout
![640 Million Year Old Enorama Shale formation]()
640 Million Year Old Enorama Shale formation
![On the Main Brachina Gorge Drive Road]()
On the Main Brachina Gorge Drive Road
![On the Martins Well Road looking east]()
On the Martins Well Road looking east
![Information Shelter at the start of the Arkaroo Rock walk]()
Information Shelter at the start of the Arkaroo Rock walk
![Track conditions on the walk]()
Track conditions on the walk
![On the Arkaroo Rock walk]()
On the Arkaroo Rock walk
![Arkaroo Rock Art Site]()
Arkaroo Rock Art Site
![Arkaroo Rock Art Site]()
Arkaroo Rock Art Site
![Arkaroo Rock Art Site]()
Arkaroo Rock Art Site
![Arkaroo Rock Art Site]()
Arkaroo Rock Art Site
![Arkaroo Rock Art Site]()
Arkaroo Rock Art Site
![Fiona admiring the Rock Art]()
Fiona admiring the Rock Art
![This cage protects the Rock Art]()
This cage protects the Rock Art
![Low cloud cover over St Mary Peak]()
Low cloud cover over St Mary Peak
![It fined up as we were coming home]()
It fined up as we were coming home
![Moralana Scenic Drive]()
Moralana Scenic Drive
![Large Gums in Moralana Creek]()
Large Gums in Moralana Creek
![Moralana Scenic Drive]()
Moralana Scenic Drive
![The clouds rolling in again on the Moralana Scenic Drive]()
The clouds rolling in again on the Moralana Scenic Drive
![At the Surveyors Memorial with the Ranges in the Background]()
At the Surveyors Memorial with the Ranges in the Background
![Elder Range]()
Elder Range