The women in the group soon established a pattern of walking out ahead of the vehicles each morning, leaving the men to
check the vehicles and warm them up and discuss final plans. These walks were a good way to get to know each other better and also to have a closer look at the country that we were passing through.
![Insect tracks on the dunes]()
Insect tracks on the dunes
It was common to see lots of animal tracks made by everything from moths to dingoes as
well as any interesting plants and flowers that might be out. This morning there were plenty of
dingo prints although we had not noticed any dingoes last night.
For the first section of the track this day we travelled through increasingly red and empty desert.
![Wind ripples pattern the sand]()
Wind ripples pattern the sand
The surface of the sand in many
places was patterned with wind ripples and we wished that we could have stopped and admired this sight. But a big convoy waits for no Troopy. A few more easy dunes brought us to the western end of the arrow straight QAA line, then there was a big claypan to cross.
![Crossing the claypan]()
Crossing the claypan
You could almost hear the whoops of joy as some of the vehicles fanned out for a “gallop” across the smooth surface. Once across we turned towards
Poeppel Corner running south along the edge of the claypan for some distance until we reached signs pointing
![This way to Poeppel Corner]()
This way to Poeppel Corner
to
Poeppel Corner and the French Line.
The short section of track into the corner post – where SA, NT and Qld meet, was bumpy with outcrops of hard white
rock like lumps of concrete, worn down by the passage of many wheels. Another driving surface that we hadn’t experienced before.
![Unexpected rocky outcrops made for a bumpy ride]()
Unexpected rocky outcrops made for a bumpy ride
Soon we had the official corner post with its boardwalk and signage in sight and we stopped for morning tea and a good look around.
![Morning tea at Peoppel Corner]()
Morning tea at Peoppel Corner
There was a brisk breeze that kept the flies under control. There were the obligatory photos at the two corner posts. One post is of wood, the other of concrete with a brass
plaque with the names of the 3 states on it. This concrete post marks
the spot where Augustus Poeppel placed the original coolabah post in 1880.
![At Poeppel Corner]()
At Poeppel Corner
There was a visitor’s book to sign and of course previous entries checked out. One disappointing note while there was to see the amount of rubbish, including
toilet paper, strewn around. Surely people can do better than that?
From the corner we back tracked the short distance to the French Line then we turned north on a good track that ran beside
Lake Poeppel.
![Smooth going on Lake Poeppel]()
Smooth going on Lake Poeppel
We then headed east briefly, back to where we came off yesterday’s big salt pan, then turned north until the track eventually brought us to the dry
Poeppel Corner oil
well where we stopped for a late lunch. Scouting around someone found some camel tracks and that caused some excitement.
After lunch we went on to the Beachcomber oil
well along a reasonable track running in a swale parallel to the dunes.
![Washoouts to be avoided where possible]()
Washoouts to be avoided where possible
Conditions changed for the next 20km as we followed a shot line ENE cutting across the dunes – this was a very bumpy section with lots of small, loose sand dunes and some big holes making for an uncomfortable ride and strenuous driving. Then we turned north, running parallel to the dunes again so the going was easier. We were now heading out into
![Bare country]()
Bare country
very bare country with long dunes topped with big loose crests making an amazing sight. There were occasional dead trees half buried in shifting sand and big rings of Spinifex in the swales.
![Dead trees overcome by sand and heat]()
Dead trees overcome by sand and heat
In
places fires had burnt through quite recently leaving almost no green vegetation.
Camp that night was in an isolated and
well used large clump of gidgee.
![Another gidgee camp among big dunes]()
Another gidgee camp among big dunes
We were happy to stop driving, as the roller coaster conditions earlier in the day had been quite tiring.
When
camp was set up the girls walked out among the dunes for a closer look and a chance to take photos in the afternoon light.
![Sand and spinifex]()
Sand and spinifex
The low angled sunlight highlighted the ripples in the sand and caught the tops of the ranks of
bright red dunes that stretched away to the horizon. We climbed a big dune, and attempted a celebratory can-can to hold at bay the realisation that we really were a long way from anywhere.
![Desert Sculpture]()
Desert Sculpture
For most of us this was as remote as we had ever been. The campfire that night was welcoming and reassuring.
There were lots of
dingo tracks around
camp when we got up the next morning, but nothing seemed to be damaged or missing.
![A dingo was here]()
A dingo was here
We set off along tracks of loose sand and after travelling in one swale for some distance came into an area where the track started to go across the dunes. These were long dunes capped with very loose sand.
![A sign and no visible track before us]()
A sign and no visible track before us
There was also a cryptic sign on what remained of the track, any wheel tracks having been covered by drifting sand. The approach on the western face of the dunes was fine but there was a steep drop-off on some of these dunes so crossing was going to require extra care.
![Dave scouts ahead for a way through the dunes]()
Dave scouts ahead for a way through the dunes
The convoy came to a halt here while Dave scouted ahead looking for the best route through this area.
This enforced delay was welcomed as an opportunity to spend some time out of the vehicle having a closer look at our surrounds.
![Exploring the dunes]()
Exploring the dunes
The dunes themselves were a spectacular sight, very red, with sharply defined crests and patterned with wind ripples. Some are elegantly beautiful with their wind-sculpted shapes and intense colour. In a way we are fortunate to see this country under these dry conditions.
![Beautiful sculptured dune]()
Beautiful sculptured dune
The wind blown sand would probably not be there in wetter years reducing the wind sculpting effect and giving more green in the landscape.
There are many small animal tracks and patterns made by moths as they fluttered over the sand.
![Patterns in the sand - ripples and moth tracks]()
Patterns in the sand - ripples and moth tracks
In
places the wind had blown sand from around buried termite nests leaving them exposed. In such an arid place it is amazing to think that there could be any animal however small surviving out here. There is a bit of vegetation in the swales, a few different Eremophilas including one with a purple flower,
![Purple Eremophila - the name means desert loving - how true.]()
Purple Eremophila - the name means desert loving - how true.
a blue pea and a Scaevola or fan flower on a very tough prickly bush. In some
places there are signs of recent fires and we speculate why it is that burnt shrubs seem to constrict their branches into a compact cone shape.
![Moving on again]()
Moving on again
The pattern of waiting while Dave found a way through difficult sections was repeated a few times, so our progress was quite slow but exciting as we topped crest after crest then plunged down the steep faces of these big dunes. We were pleased that we were not travelling from the north as getting up these big loose dunes could have been difficult.
Eventually we got very excited about finding a single star picket in swale, confirming our arrival at the
Hay River.
![Stunted Cooibahs at the southern end of the Hay River]()
Stunted Cooibahs at the southern end of the Hay River
Not that there was any river to be seen, or any water, but we were in the swale where the river occasionally runs before the water sinks into the sand. Around the star picket there were some stunted Coolibah trees confirming the presence of water somewhere deep underground. Amazingly they were even flowering. The
Hay River starts in the ranges just to the north of the
Plenty Highway and after heavy rain flows south into the
Simpson Desert where the waters evaporate and sink into the sand, although some water goes into numerous lakes and wetlands around
Lake Caroline.
![Lunch break]()
Lunch break
We stopped for lunch on the track among some big dunes. Although there was still very little vegetation, by now some larger gum trees were showing up in
places, suggesting that there was more water available underground. There were increasing signs of animal life, a dragon fly, the odd bird in the sky and most telling,
![Eagle's nest]()
Eagle's nest
an eagle’s nest.
As we progressed the sand dunes fell behind and we travelled up the course of the dry
Hay River. The Coolibahs gradually became bigger.
![Loose sand encroaching on the track]()
Loose sand encroaching on the track
The road was quite bumpy and winding with patches of loose sand requiring careful driving. Occasionally dunes came down almost into the bed of the river. We stopped at Madigans
Camp 16, the Blaze tree, where there was a visitors book to sign and
check back for records of other trips and other travellers.
![Madigan's Blaze tree]()
Madigan's Blaze tree
HF radios are on as there is a call out for a couple that police are trying to contact with an urgent message.
We travelled on a bit further, collected some firewood and finally made
camp just past
the junction with the
Madigan Line. Everyone is rather tired as driving today has been quite energetic. Some others in the group have come down with a flu like virus. We found a spot near a big yellow flowering Hakea
![Spiky Hakea]()
Spiky Hakea
with very spiky leaves. It’s an unexpected lay day tomorrow as there is another big group at Batton
Hill, so there wont be room for us if we arrive too soon.
![Sunset in a red desert]()
Sunset in a red desert
So that night there was a mood of relaxation and satisfaction and good company around the campfire.