Fitzgerald River National Park

On this trek you'll visit one of the world's most diverse botanical regions with more than 1800 different species of flowing plants in a national park, which is less than 330,000 hectares in size. You'll also get treated to some of the best coastal scenery in the country, some phenomenal beach and rock fishing, and wonderfully isolated campsites.

Fitzgerald River National Park is blessed with magnificent scenery, mountain ranges, red cliffs, rivers, inlets and the incredible white sandy beaches accenting clear azure blue waters of the southern ocean.

Bushwalking provides the opportunity to spot endangered native animals like the dibbler, a small marsupial which has recently been rediscovered in the park. You can go whale watching from Bremer Beach and Point Ann, two places along the coast where Southern Right Whales come to calve during their winter migration.

The park can be accessed from the western side via Bremer Bay - arguably the Western Australia’s most interesting town, or from the eastern side via Hopetoun. The central area of the park is only accessible with a four wheel drive vehicle or on foot.

NOTE: the route shown here uses 4WD tracks which Parks & Wildlife may close due to dieback, or may be closed due to seasonal issues. In particular, the sandbar over the Inlet in Bremer Bay has been exposed to the sea for the past few years and is currently impassable, which makes this route impossible (update: Sept 2023).

Environment

Fitzgerald River National Park is one of the world's most diverse botanical regions with more than 1800 different species of flowing plants in a national park, which is less than 330,000 hectares in size.

History

The coast around Esperance was first visited by the French - an expedition led by Admiral Bruny D'Entrecasteaux - in 1792. Much of the coast east of Hopetoun bears names assigned by these early French mariners. It is Matthew Flinders however who holds the honour of being the first European to visit the area around Hopetoun in 1802. The next Europeans in the area were sealers chasing the highly prized pelts of the New Zealand fur seals. Norwegian and North American whalers also who plied the coast chasing the southern right whales.

It is one of these early whalers, a man by the name of Thomas who visited the area in the 1820s and is thought to have named the bay upon which Hopetoun sits - Mary Ann Haven - after his daughter. The next significant visitor to the region was Edward John Eyre who camped at Jeradcuttup Lakes and Culham Inlet on his quest to be the first European to cross from South Australia to Albany overland.

Eyre and his Aboriginal companion, Wylie, were lucky to have made it to Hopetoun. Had it not been for a chance encounter with the whaling boat Mississippi in Rossiter's Bay (named by Eyre after the captain of the Missisippi) Eyre's epic journey may have ended very differently.

Edward Eyre named one of the district's most prominent geographical features - Mount Barren - and said of it in his journals: "Most properly had it been called Mt Barren, for a more wretched arid looking country never existed than that around it". How wrong could he be? The peak that he named lies in a region which has more than 1800 different plant species and is of international significance!

The area around Hopetoun was first settled by the brothers Dunn - one of whom, John, first visited the area as a whaler in 1860s. In 1871 John Dunn drove sheep overland from Albany - a trip which took him three months. He and his brother George were formally granted 4049 hectares of land on 1 January 1873 but the district's first pioneer never got to see the area reach its full potential. He was killed by Aboriginals in 1880 and his grave can be found on Concanarup Road (which runs off the South Coast Highway west of Ravensthorpe - the turnoff is at ST 1).

It was another of the Dunn brothers who was responsible for the ultimate development of the district. In 1898 he found gold and copper near the Phillip River. This resulted in a dramatic gold rush, the development of a smelter at Ravensthorpe, a railway line between Ravensthorpe and Hopetoun, a private jetty at Hopetoun (which was built in 1901) and a wooden-structured lighthouse (which was first lit in 1909).

Things started to decline in 1918 and by 1925 the railway line was closed and the port following shortly after in 1936. Sadly the jetty at Hopetoun, which would have been at least as impressive as the fuelling jetty at Esperance, was burnt to the waterline by the public works department in 1983 and little remains but the Port Hotel, the old telegraph station and post office and the old station building.

Bremer Bay (the bay, not the township) was named by Surveyor General John Septimus Roe in 1849 and took its name from the captain of HMS Tamar, Sir Gordon Bremer. It was first settled by the Wellstead family in the 1850's and the original township was actually named Wellstead. Bremer Bay locals petitioned the government to have the town renamed in 1951.

The Wellstead's property is on Toolenburrup Hill - 7KM south of Bremer Bay - and is now the site of a wonderful café/restaurant and a museum which you need an entire day to do justice to.

TrekID: 96

2023 Update: The route shown on this Trek has been long used by locals and adventurers but has been impassible for some years and remains so due to the opening of the sandbar from Bremer Bay to Gordon Inlet Track and also numerous track closures enforced by Parks & Wildlife due to dieback disease.

The 3 recommended points for entering Fitzgerald River NP are:

1. from the south west side via Devils Creek Road (off South Coast Hwy) which is sealed for the most part. Then turn onto Point Ann Road which takes you all the way out to Point Anne (whale watching) and the St Mary Campground.

2. from the north, enter directly into the park via Quiss Road which comes off the South Coast Highway a little to the east of Jerramungup.

3. from the east, via Hopetoun via sealed roads out to East Mount Barren.

There is no vehicular/4WD shortcut through the centre of the park via the inlet track (closed).

Refer to all the POIs updates as the latest information about access and facilities is there.

This is an easy trip that demands little special preparation. Fuel and supplies are readily available at Bremer Bay. It is important however, to ensure that you take with you adequate supplies of water and remember that this is an isolated stretch of the Western Australian coast. Emergency and breakdown services are some distance away, which demands common sense, sound vehicle preparation and a level of self-sufficiency.

It is also worthwhile noting that a bit of research pre-departure will make things that much more enjoyable.

The access track to Quion Head is often closed after heavy rain, not just because the track may become impassable, but to protect the national park from the ravages of dieback. 2023 update: this track has been reopened (4WD only).

Similarly, the sandbar across Wellstead Estuary (near Bremer Bay) is often impassable after rains. Signage is provided by the Jerramungup Shire about the status of the sandbar, but taking the time to confirm its condition before leaving is advisable. Prudent travellers will also walk the sandbar rather than relying on the shire's signs or evidence of other vehicles traversing it. 2023 update: the crossing is closed/impassable due to flowing water through the inlet.

Check the Parks & Wildlife website for current track closures or reopenings before planning your trip. See Parks & Wildlife WA website..

Finally, the weather on this stretch is best described as changeable, whilst the sea breeze is something which can be relied upon to visit you every day with vengeance. Bear this in mind when you decide what equipment to take with you and when selecting your campsite.

Permits

Many WA National Parks charge both an entry fee and a nightly camping fee, whilst others may only charge a camping fee. You might like to consider gaining a WA All Parks Pass before you go. This Pass provides access to all WA National Parks as many times as you like within a 12 month period. For more information for Fitzgerald River National Park, including permit costs, please click:Parks & Wildlife WA website..

Fuel Usage

Additional fuel supplies can be located at Ravensthorpe and Hopetoun.

Diesel	ULP	LPG
4cyl 32 litres	4cyl 37 litres	4cyl 45 litres
6cyl 35 litres	6cyl 41 litres	6cyl 40 litres
8cyl 35 litres	8cyl 38 litres

Best Time To Visit

If you want to view the abundant wildflowers, then early spring and early autumn is the time to go. Whale watching is in season from July to October, although it can get quite cold in winter.

Whale Watching, Wildflowers, Hiking, Swimming, Canoeing, Kayaking, Fishing and other water activities, Camping & 4WDriving.

Where to Stay

There are a few few camps on the outskirts but the main camps have a small fee payable and offer toilets. See each Place for specific details and facilities.

Services & Supplies

Albany to the west and Esperance to the east for major supplies, whilst minor supplies can be found at Ravensthorpe, Hopetoun, and Bremer Bay.

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